Teaching Rear Crosses: Step-by-Step Guide for Dog Agility

Hello and welcome — I’m Emma, trainer and one of the owners at Anglian Dog Works.

In this guide, we’re breaking down one of the most useful agility handling moves — the rear cross.

If you’ve ever found yourself behind your dog on course and thought, “How do I help them turn the right way without needing to run faster?” — this one’s for you.

We’ll cover what a rear cross is, why it matters, and how to teach it step-by-step so you can practice with your own dog at home or in your garden.

If you'd like to listen to this instead, here's the link: 
https://open.spotify.com/episode/1TK9jE4w9DTKgVIXtigNWd?si=wvHyI8E5TXi9HmPRVi__Gg

What Is a Rear Cross?

Have you ever watched your dog power out of a tunnel, gain momentum… and suddenly realise you’re two jumps behind?

That’s where the rear cross comes in.

A cross is any move where you change the side you’re handling your dog on.

A rear cross happens when you switch sides while your dog is ahead of you.

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Let’s Walk Through an Example

Here’s what a rear cross looks like on course:

• The dog comes out of a tunnel on the handler’s right-hand side. Ahead is a line of jumps forming a small grid: jump, jump, a sharp 270° right turn, jump, jump.

• The next part of the course requires a right-hand turn, so the handler switches to handling on their left for the clockwise section.

• The dog runs down the line and commits to the first jump while the handler finds themselves a few steps behind.

• The handler takes a diagonal path behind the dog between jumps one and two — moving from the left-hand side of the first jump into the middle of the grid, slightly to the right. From here, they guide the dog’s turn by pivoting.

• The handler’s diagonal movement from the left of the jump line to the right behind their dog switches the handling side — that’s the rear cross. It’s called that because you’re crossing at your dog’s rear.

• By the end of the movement, the dog is on the handler’s left-hand side, ready to continue the course in a clockwise direction.

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Why Use a Rear Cross?

In agility, dogs often gain momentum and get ahead of us on a line.

If they’re unsure where to go next, they might slow down, spin, or look back — wasting seconds and causing confusion.

The rear cross lets you communicate direction without needing to run beside your dog.

It’s especially useful when you’re behind and need to cue a smooth, confident turn.

Before teaching a rear cross, ensure:

• You can recognise and run a diagonal line behind your dog.

• Your dog understands verbal direction cues — “left,” “right,” or “go.”

• Your dog is confident and independent enough to commit to obstacles ahead.

• You’ve proofed that your dog can turn both with you (a pivot) and away from you (a rear cross).

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Training Methods: Luring and Shaping

Luring and shaping are two effective methodologies to teach a rear cross.

• Luring — using a treat or toy to guide your dog into a desired position.

• Shaping — rewarding small steps toward the final behaviour.

In my classes, I often combine the two for faster learning and confidence-building.

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Luring

Luring uses food or a toy to guide your dog through the movement.

It’s a clear visual for both human and dog and helps you practise swapping handling sides.

The goal is to fade the lure, eventually moving your hand in the same way without a reward.

Pros:

• Provides a clear visual for both human and dog

• Helps handlers understand where their dog should be in relation to them

Cons:

• Dogs that rely too much on the lure may struggle with independence

Example: Lured Rear Cross (Step-by-Step)

1. Start with your dog on your right-hand side.

2. Hold your lure (food or toy) in your left hand.

3. Lean across your body so the lure is right in front of your dog’s nose — like two magnets: lure and dog’s nose.

4. Keep the dog close — if you move too fast or too far, you lose the connection.

5. Trace a gentle C-shape away from your right heel.

6. As the dog follows, cross in front to your left, turning with them — from facing forward to facing right. End with your dog on your left-hand side.

Once the pattern is clear, repeat without a lure, adding your verbal cue — for example, “right.”

When your dog is fluent on the flat, you can take it to a jump, guiding the scooping motion with your hand and stepping forward to meet them on the far side.

To recap: lure → fade lure → add your cue → challenge one of the 3Ds (Duration, Distance, Distraction) — a formula dog trainers can use across nearly any skill.

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Shaping

Shaping breaks the movement into small goals and rewards the dog for each step toward the final behaviour.

🎥 Watch the video tutorial here: Rear Cross Demo

 

Example: Shaped Rear Cross (Step-by-Step)

1. Set up an obstacle and a strategically placed reinforcer — e.g., a bowl on the far side of a turn.

2. Start handling on the near side, dog on your left.

3. Guide them round clockwise, marking “good” and rewarding in the bowl.

4. Repeat until the dog begins offering the turn independently.

5. Release when they anticipate the turn, add the verbal cue — “right.”

6. Progress your position: behind them, then far side, increasing distance gradually.

7. Add a jump pole, then build it into a full course.

 

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Final Thoughts

Both luring and shaping have real value:

• Luring teaches humans the movement — like learning choreography before a dance.

• Shaping builds your dog’s confidence and independence — so they perform even when you’re not right beside them.

Used together, they create a strong foundation for clear communication on course.

Now you’ve got the exercises — why not plan where you’ll try them next? Maybe your garden, or somewhere during walks?

That’s the rear cross — a simple move that keeps your dog confident and flowing, even when you’re a few steps behind.

If you try it, tag @angliandogworks to share your progress — and follow for more dog training tips.